Cover image: 2019 FKDL mural of Josephine Baker
© Entrée to Black Paris

In the article I posted last week about the new Josephine Baker mural by Franck Duval (aka FKDL) that graces the landscape of the 19th arrondissement, I mentioned that in 2019, the artist painted another mural of Josephine in the area.

Upon researching the location of this mural on a map, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that it was only a few blocks away from the new one.

So, last Sunday Tom and I headed back to the neighborhood to see if this first work was still in place and intact.

We took the metro to the Corentin Cariou station (Line 7) and began our walk through a peaceful neighborhood that we had never visited before.

As we made our way to Quai de la Gironde, which borders Canal de Saint Denis, we came across the abandoned railway called La Petite Ceinture

La Petite Ceinture crossing rue Dampierre
© Entrée to Black Paris

and a Caribbean street food establishment called Bamn'Bokit.

Banm'Bokit restaurant
© Entrée to Black Paris

Turning onto the quay and following it to its intersection with Quai de l'Oise and the Canal d'Ourcq, we crossed Canal d'Ourcq via a footbridge that flanked La Petite Ceinture and marveled at the foliage that has overtaken the rails. 

La Petite Ceinture crossing Canal d'Ourcq
© Entrée to Black Paris

Looking up the canal, could see the Grands Moulins de Pantin in the distance.

Canal d'Ourcq looking toward Pantin
© Entrée to Black Paris

When we crossed the footbridge, we saw that we were only two blocks from the pub L'Atalante, where the new mural is found.

We proceeded down rue des Ardennes, which is bordered on one side by the vaulted stone wall that supports La Petite Ceinture, and turned right onto rue de Thionville.  

The 2019 Josephine Baker mural is across the street from Number 32 on this street.  

2019 FKDL mural of Josephine Baker
© Entrée to Black Paris

To be sure, it is weather worn.  It bears the traces of a dark liquid that dripped from an opening in the wall, and it has the remnants of a flier pasted on it.

But it has not been painted over and it has stood the test of time.

After taking photos of the mural, we retraced our steps to the Canal d'Ourcq and made our way to l'Atalante for lunch.

Along the way, we encountered multiple murals on quai de la Marne that bear witness to the many street art festivals that have been held in this area over the years.

BacktotheStreet photos affixed to 2019 mural by Zenoy
© Entrée to Black Paris

One of 37 BacktotheStreet photos affixed to mural by Zenoy
© Entrée to Black Paris

Commemorative mural for street artist Batsh (1975-2020)
© Entrée to Black Paris

Mural by Jack Pionisci (beneath bridge) and
J'ai Deux Amours mural of Josephine Baker by FKCL
© Entrée to Black Paris

Even the dining room at L'Atlante boasts a mural by dAcRuZ, the organizer of the Ourcq Living Colors festival.

dAcRuZ mural in l'Atalante dining room
© Entrée to Black Paris

We had a lovely lunch of burgers and fries and watched the beginning of the last stage of the Tour de France Femme on the large screen above the bar.

Look for a review of our meal next week on the Paris Insights restaurant review page.

The weather was perfect on the day we chose to make this excursion, and the neighborhoods we visited were quiet - most likely because the inhabitants had left town for vacation and tourists do not frequent this area.

All in all, our search for Josephine was a delightful experience!